Genta's breaks with colors and materials .. tantalum, gold, grey..
By: bernard cheong (registered) Thursday, November 15th, 2007 - Photo Nav: View All 5 photo(s)I saw both Gefica and the new biretro simultaneuosly at Le Sentier in winter of 2006.
I was struck by the break away from all tradition, dna, thematic trade marks etc by both teams. Yes, there was the fact that it had to have the typical architecture that was contrained by the movements workings, and that basically, the thing was a "watch".
But that's it. The teams had used color and metal, they brought "fusion", to an extreme, were and had every right to be confident that they would sell everything they made, no advertisement, well at least hardly any "promo".
They used texture and contrasting materials like bronze with titanium.
They used contrasting elements of technological history..tantulum and gold.
They played with shadow and light on an item the size of a coin...rivets and deep dish, versus flat dials with drilled out holes.
They made a size without using spacers inside the case, but used a THICK solid gold case...in other words, they explored weight!
These have never been intentionally done by others...by accident, yes...
It was no surprise that Gefica, MBF1 and the Freak became watches that broke into the collective conscious mind of the world press with Newsweek and the IHT in 2006 and 2007. These journalists never write about products like watches, and such focused articles as well..specifically naming these watches. Unlike trade and hobby magazines who offer articles on advertisement leverage, it's business.
I think the Gefica breaks much more ground on BOTH watch making and in the historical overview of ALL things in design ...vis a vis Mercedes Gullwing 300SL 1959, Eiffel tower, Herve Leger...
The new tantalum biretros and quad retros...they break the molds of watchmaking..specifically with planar design on 2 dimensions, which is VERY difficult, and I feel that they have won.
The Gefica had 3 dimensions to play with, depth as well as layout...something that most had not explored to the hilt.
They are very different designs. One is planar, the other..sculptural.
Both totally genderless...an important feat in these days of purer break from "fashion".
" Fashion is often the worse enemy of art, but art, being immortal always wins".
